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Rangefinder Magazine
January 2003

Problems & Solutions

Please accompany your questions with a self-addressed stamped envelope if you wish an immediate reply. Alternatively, you can e-mail me at: bhurter@rfpublishing.com.

From: Laird H. Chafee, Potsdam, NY
focalpt@northnet.org

I have a Lightmaster “Report” enlarger timer, vintage late 1970s, that has been sitting on my workbench way too long. I know it is German-made, but I lost the bottom cover, which had all the manufacturer’s information. I need a schematic in order to finish the repairs. Can you help?

I checked with the folks at Argraph, who sell Tim-O-Lite products and who know about every darkroom product past and present, and they have never heard of LightMaster. Neither have I. An Internet search turned up a Russian company, called LightMaster, but I doubt this is it. Maybe we’ll hear from somebody who can answer this one.

From: Harry Assod
El Paso, Texas

Your November 2002 issue featured a great cover! It was one of the best fashion covers of all time. The model is a classic beauty. Congratulations!

I’m sure Bambi Cantrell, the photographer, and Jazmine Paty, the model, will both be delighted with your comments. On another note, we have been deluged with calls about where to find the “Eyelighter,” a reflector that Bambi used for that shot. The Eyelighter is available from Larry Peters Photography, (740) 852-2731; www. petersphotography.com; e-mail address: kpeters314@aol.com.

Jimmy D. Peterson
Pro Kids Photography
Lindale, Texas
prokidsphotography@hotmail.com
I am currently working towards converting from film to digital. The question that no one answers is which digital camera is best for which situation. I understand that all digital cameras are not created equally. I shoot a wide range of children’s activities as well as portraits and some commercial work. I am looking for some reference to a camera that meets the majority of my needs. It needs to be rugged, debris tight, weather resistant and fast to download. I know I am asking a lot! Can you please assist me in this matter? I am afraid of purchasing the wrong camera for the right work. Thanks for your advice.

If you already have a sizeable investment in one brand of camera, you probably want to stick with that brand, provided your lenses are operational on that company’s digital models. Your best bet is to do some online model comparisons. The aspects of file size/resolution, speed of operation, burst rate, storage media choices, lens choices, system capabilities, on-board image processing software and last, but certainly not least, price, are some of the things you want to look at. Every day new models of pro SLR digital cameras are being introduced and yes, the prices are dropping. Make a list of what you need your digital gear to do for you and do an online search for “digital SLR camera comparison.” You will unearth dozens of useful sites that will help you wade through the many pro SLR models out there.

The Masters of American Photography set of 20 commemorative 37-cent stamps is now available on line at the USPS web site: http://shop.usps.com. The sheet of 20 retails for $7.40.

From: David N. Mead
dcmead@mindspring.com

I like to use hot lights in my studio. I especially like the old Smith Victor Q60 600-watt lamps. I would like to know if I can lower the voltage safely on these lamps for better control. Do you have any solutions?

Yes. Smith-Victor even makes a dimmer switch for these lights that should plish exactly what you want. For more information, contact Smith-Victor Corporation, 301 North Colfax St., Griffith, IN 46319; (219) 924-6136, (800) 348-9862; fax (219) 924-7356.

From: Haven Noble
havennoble@lisco.com

I saw the request in Rangefinder about enlargers and the Inverse Square Law. The Inverse Square Law doesn’t work very well in these situations because of the “Bellows factor” or lens factor that also comes into play when changing magnification.

We used to set up small labs for pro photographers and always felt that after you had a good print at one size you shouldn't have to start all over when making a different size. With some research and R and D we came up with several slick systems, which allowed our customers to make a 4x5 print for color and density and then raise the head to any height and know exactly what the f-stop and exposure time would be for that magnification. This can be used in a chart form or it can be run on a computer. It works extremely well. I have gone from a wallet size to 16x20 or larger with no detectable difference in density or color, as long as you stay on the same emulsion and keep reciprocity at bay. (not difficult with modern materials).

If you want more information on this system, contact Haven Noble at his e-mail address: havennoble@lisco.com.

From: UncleLeon@aol.com
Regarding Jim Stordal’s question concerning making two identical images when printing different sizes. There is a very simple way to do this using a light meter, requiring no mathematics or calibration. First make the larger print. Then place the incident reading light meter on the easel in a position to read a significant area (the face, for example). Take a light reading at this point and note the reading.

Secondly, compose for the smaller print. Place the light meter in the exact same position (on the image) as on the larger print. As you take the meter reading, reduce the ligh output of the enlarger by closing down the aperture of the lens. (Remember that light meters react slowly, so give it a couple seconds to “settle down” to the correct reading.) Now make the second exposure at the same time setting as the first print.

From: Nizam Mohamed
aaaphoto@earthlink.net
How does one go about getting a watercolor effect using Photoshop only? Does Painter greatly improve the effect? Thanks for any help you can give me.

Photoshop has a watercolor filter that you can get to by selecting Filter > Artistic > Watercolor from the main drop-down menus. You can then adjust the brush detail, shadow intensity and texture. It is a lovely effect. In Photoshop 7.0, you can access a similar effect in Image Effects.atn, which is part of the Actions library stored in your Photoshop folder. Once you access Image Effects.atn through the Actions menu, go to Oil Pastel. The effect is similar to watercolor, but uses some interesting smudge effects. I am not too familiar with Painter, but maybe one of our readers will be able to give you some advice. My guess is that Painter is loaded with such effects. Stay tuned.

 

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