Rangefinder Magazine
November 2001/Features

Coyote Buttes, North by Michael Heppler
The “Wave” and the “Swirl”

Caption #1

While in Page, Arizona to photograph Antelope Canyon, my wife and I stopped at the Page Chamber of Commerce one morning. We were browsing through flyers and brochures on what to do and see in Page, and the surrounding area when I looked up from the information table and saw, hanging above it, a gorgeous photograph of sensuously sculpted sandstone bathed in late afternoon sunlight. It was the perfect image of an ocean tide washing ashore, receding, and leaving its delicately curved imprint petrified on the sand.

I assumed the photograph had been taken somewhere nearby as the sandstone had the same geological look we had been seeing in the Page area. I definitely wanted to know where the photograph was taken. The person at the information desk thought it was taken at a place called “The Wave,” but did not know the exact location. Throughout the day we were in and out of different shops and I continued to ask if anyone knew the location of The Wave but no one could give me much information. Exactly where it was remained a mystery. The one thing they all agreed on, they thought it was “a good hike” to get there.

I had read a small article in the Page newspaper about petroglyphs just over the Arizona-Utah border and was interested in photographing them, so that afternoon we drove to Utah, stopping at the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) field office at Paria Canyon for information on petroglyphs. The BLM rangers were friendly and very helpful. Not only did they have information on the petroglyph location, but also, to my good fortune, they knew about The Wave!

Caption #2

They said that The Wave is located in Arizona at the Coyote Buttes, North area of the Paria canyon—Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness. It is under the control of the BLM and a $5 permit is required to enter the area. It is a day’s hike, no overnights allowed and the BLM issues only 10 permits a day. You must purchase your permit well in advance because the calendar is filled quickly. A ranger told me, “people from all over the world come here to photograph it.” He gave me information on how to make a reservation from their web site so I could make online reservations from home. Thanking them for all their help and information I went on my way, I could hardly wait to get back home and make reservations for my trip to Coyote Buttes and The Wave!

Making reservations was easy. At home I logged onto their web site (https://paria.az.blm.gov), checked their calendar to see what dates were open, made reservations and paid for the permits, all on line. I got permits and reservations for three. My cousin and a friend, who both live in Page, planned to make the trip with me. Our permits were for a year in advance—at that time you could make them that far ahead. That has changed now and you can make them up to seven months in advance. Check the BLM web site frequently for any changes. There is also an online bulletin board where hikers leave messages wanting to switch hiking dates or sell their permits as they find it’s no longer possible for them to go on their reservation day. You may also find posted other useful information about weather conditions, and related subjects.

	Caption #3

As our reservation date approached I had to decide what equipment to take. I wanted as light a load as I could get. It is only a 2.5-mile hike but I had been warned that it is a bit difficult and going in late May, the heat would be an important factor. In addition to the equipment I would be carrying, I would also have to carry more water than I would have in a cooler time of the year. According to Jackson Bridges, one of the persons going with me, we would have to carry a gallon of water each. Jackson is an experienced guide, hiker and professional photographer, so I figured he knew what he was talking about. I narrowed it down to a Nikon N-70 with a Tamron 28–200mm lens. I took 11 rolls of 35mm Fuji Provia F slide film, a circular polarizer filter, a cable release, lens pen, small medical kit, flashlight and a small pad of paper and pen. Although it would be the heaviest item, I decided on my Bogen tripod for its stability and the high quality photographs I demand. This all fit nicely into a Lowepro AW backpack with the tripod connected to the back. Still a heavy load, but the weight would lessen as water was consumed.

The trip I had waited almost a year for was here. I was headed for Page, Arizona and The Wave! I met up with Jackson Bridges and my cousin, Paul Burton, the local dentist in Page, in front of my motel at 4:00 am. We loaded our equipment into Jackson’s Jeep and headed West into Utah. It’s about a forty-mile drive to the Wire Trail turnoff. From the turnoff point it is another eight and a half miles down a dirt road. The dirt road was in good condition and we arrived at the trailhead parking area about 5:00 am. We signed in at the registration post and I began my long anticipated journey to The Wave. It had been almost a year since I had seen that large, framed photo in the Chamber of Commerce office and I was finally going to get my shot at it!

	Caption #4

The hike begins in an easy to walk in dry riverbed but it’s not long before you realize you’re walking in deep sand. Early in the hike dawn edged over the mountains and cascaded across Coyote Buttes— it was spectacular. We stopped often, taking advantage of the early morning light, photographing wild flowers, gnarled pines and rock formations. Continuing our hike, we crossed several small steep hills with lots of loose rock. We had to watch our footing on the edge of the steep sandstone berms. It would be easy to slip and fall. I would advise anyone taking this hike to invest in a pair of good hiking boots. You not only need good footing but you also start to feel the ache from walking at angles on the steep hills.

We crossed back into Arizona from Utah and reached our destination about 8:00 am. I was finally at The Wave! I was surprised to find The Wave a much smaller area than I had envisioned. But this did not lessen its amazing photographic possibilities. The flowing shapes and elegant curves of the sandstone formation are nothing short of awesome! The sun’s interaction with this natural masterpiece is chameleon like, making photographic opportunities endless! The various levels of iron-rich content reflect the sunlight, and throughout the day, display an astonishing variety of hues.

Luck was with us; recent rains left a large reflecting pool at the base of the entrance to The Wave. I could hardly wait to get my photo gear set up. The big decision was where to start—the pool, reflecting the intense blue sky and beautiful sandstone formations or the sensual fluid curves of The Wave as they changed color with the sun?

Caption #5

Jackson had been to The Wave several times and had discovered other nearby locations he wanted to show us. After a short walk we were at beautiful sandstone formation that had been nicknamed “The Swirl.” The Swirl is a beautiful pale yellow sandstone formation of long sweeping curls and arches. It was getting late in the day, and the softening sunlight was bringing out the ethereal yellows in The Swirl, while the first traces of shadows were beginning to hug their edges. We quickly set up our cameras hurrying to capture the elegant beauty of The Swirl before the sun would disappear behind the mountains and the long shadows would call the day to a close.

Coyote Buttes and The Wave are truly a photographer’s paradise. When you return from the hike your legs will be tired, your film supply will be exhausted, but you will have memories to last a lifetime.

Captions:

1. Opposite: I liked the way the sandstone fins curved upward, disappearing around the wall. I sat my tripod on an incline and adjusted the legs to fit the sloping cliff.

2. We entered The Wave area here. A recent thunderstorm left this reflective pool. I took several bracketed photographs to get this image.

3. Although The Wave is relatively small, compared to other natural wonders, the photo opportunities are endless. Just walk a few feet and you will have an entirely new view. After photographing this “bowl,” I climbed up the incline to a sandstone shelf to photograph from a different perspective.

4. I positioned my tripod a little to the right of the incline. I set my lens at f/22 and bracketed a 1ž2 stop either way. The afternoon light brought out the colors of the iron-rich sandstone formation.

5. We took a short 10-15 minute hike to the location we called “The Swirl.” This graceful sandstone formation is composed of pale yellow fins, curls and arches. Wanting to use the afternoon light to it’s best advantage, I walked around for a few moments with camera in hand determining the best angle as the light softened and brought out the delicate colors in the formation.

Michael Heppler is a freelance photographer specializing in Southwest nature photography. He has several years of experience in contract work for studios. He is based in Tucson, AZ and can be reached via the web site: www.desertphotography.com.